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Sunday, April 20, 2025

‘I visited Greek island and fell in love but now tourists make it unbearable’

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Stepping off the plane in the Santorini heat, the island looked rugged yet beautiful and I was keen to get exploring.

I had landed on the stunning island for a mere four day trip, to see one of my closest friends get married and enjoy a cocktail or two. Armed with just a piece of hand-luggage and my friend, we soon arrived at our modern apartment in Thira, the capital, where breathtaking scenery surrounded us.

Just a short walk away was the city centre, which is not your typical sprawled out setting. Quaint, cobbled streets weaved in and out of traditional restaurants and shops. And nearly every terrace looked out over the Aegean Sea, which was made all the more mesmerising when the sun started to set, setting the sky in pink, purple and orange colours.

It was almost understated, with pathways accidentally lending themselves to some of the best views I have ever seen; it’s safe to say Santorini took my heart from the first night. This was back in late April, 2018, to be exact, a whole seven years ago. And I am sad to say a lot has changed since our short stint on the island.

Pictures now dominate social media and the internet of the same pathways I walked, comfortably, with crowds of tourists on one mission – and that’s to capture Santorini’s now famous sunset.

The cobbled pathways are now littered with shoulder-to-shoulder people desperate to update their own social media accounts with the latest imagery and video content. While I am from the tech-driven generation, I am disappointed to see such a lovely part of the world completely overwhelmed with tourists.

Was the island ever set up for such popularity? The short answer is no – and that’s a big part of why Greek residents worry over the infrastructure’s longevity if every summer opens the door to keen holidaymakers in their droves.

While the issue of overtourism is not new, locals have suddenly become more vocal about it in the last two years. Their war isn’t with the visitors that keep the island’s economy thriving, it’s with the lack of control on the crowds and the lifestyle imposed on residents who live there all year round. The issue is two-fold, with tourists flocking to the ever-popular island from cruiseliners and planes.

Cruise ships are now being targeted with €20 per person tourist taxes, equating to roughly £17 per-person. The proceeds are set to be reinvested into the island’s infrastructure and to keep tourism numbers under control.

Since 2018, there is also an Overnight Stay Tax demand for holidaymakers to pay when they reach their hotel or apartment. People will need to pay a small fee based on the rating of their accommodation on arrival, which is determined by Greek authorities themselves and are known to differ from travel agents’ ratings.

According to Tovima, Santorini’s tourist economy could be set to see a dip this year after a series of small scale earthquakes back in January and February. The full impact on tourism will not be known until later this year once the summer’s peak season has passed.

The Minister of Tourism has however sought to reassure the world that Santorini is still open for business with Nikos Zorzos, the mayor of Santorini, confirming tourists have been returning since the seismic activity.

It remains to be seen whether Santorini’s appeal will continue this year, but my feeling is that many people will continue with their plans to visit the island to try and experience its remarkable beauty. I am very fortunate I got to see its glory, its untouched surroundings, before the real boom within the last few years.

I would love to come back and explore the island once again, but the thought of pushing through crowds of people is not for me right now.

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